How to Treat Rusty Hard Water Without Salt or Chemicals

 I have recently installed a new water well on my property in Texas.

Currently I have sent a water sample  into a local company for evaluation the results are pending as of now they have informed me there is no known bacteria in the sample provided.  My well produces a lot of iron sediment (rusty) and We have hard water.  My well produces aprox. Five gallons a minute of supply (2" well 1.5 h.p. Pump) I'm currently in need of a backwash water filtration unit and a salt free water softener.  I like your 5700e 1.0cf & 1.5cf series backwash system but unsure if this is the path I need to take please assist.

- Robert

Hello Robert,

Thank you for contacting us through our website. Ideally, we will need to see that local water test report to know for certain what will work best, but based on the information provided, yes, the Pro-OX iron filter is our best backwashing system to remove high iron and rust.  The salt-free Scale Stopper system that we sell comes with a carbon pre-filter that would help to take out additional iron, as well as tastes and odors.

What Type of Iron Filter is Best for Low Levels of Iron?

Dear sir,

I have had my well water tested and have low levels of iron (1.2 ppm). No manganese, and the pH of my water is neutral. I don’t have problems with odor, just rust staining on the sinks and clothes. What do you recommend? I am not sure of my well pumps flow rate, but I have a LOT of water pressure and flow. My well pump is a 1.5 HP and my well has a lot of water.

Ronald Rodriguez

Salem, OR

Mr. Rodriguez,

There are two main options to consider for iron removal.  Our Pro-OX iron filter would do the best job of oxidizing and filtering out the iron to prevent rust-colored staining.  Or, as a more economical alternative, we offer our Birm iron filter systems as well.  The Pro-OX iron filter is a much higher-quality media that won’t easily break down the way Birm does.  

Well Water Treatment for Cabin

Dear sir,

This system would be for a cabin that we would be visiting approximately 1-2 weekends per month. The water has a iron-like taste to it. From the well, the house currently has a whole-house cartridge-filter, followed by a 10-year old GE water softener (which I believe doesn't work), followed by the well tank, followed by a small cartridge-filter. All PVC/CPVC plumbing. We purchased the house about 6 months ago. The real estate transfer test came up negative for coliform. When we did our first big test on our own, it came up positive for coliform.

We'd probably be interested in a UV system (we have one at our main house) to ensure we don't have any bacteria issues and something to reduce the iron taste/staining. However, the lab iron test didn't seem that high?

I know a new water softener could reduce the iron but not sure if that's the right solution given our water hardness level doesn't seem high?

We don't have a problem with sediment currently, but it appears there is some in the water, in the form of orange-ish clay, that cakes the filter media in the first cartridge we have installed. Not sure if the sulfur odor is only on the hot water end. It seems to be stronger on hot water, but still present on cold water too.”

Matthew
North Carolina

Matthew,

Thanks for emailing.  It’s true that the analysis you submitted doesn’t show an especially high iron content, though the manganese is a little over the staining limit.  Testing for iron can be tricky and a single sample isn’t always going to give you 100% accurate representation of the actual iron content.  Between the fact that you’re seeing staining, and the fact that you have a sulfur odor problem, I would say that a treatment system is advisable.

What are the Advantages and Disadvantages to Using a Pellet Feeder for a Small Community System?

Hello,

We have a well that we need to chlorinate for some cabins in The Great Smoky Mountains National Park. I would assume the liquid chlorinator would have to be housed in a location where it isn't subjected to freezing temperatures, which might be difficult up here. A pellet chlorinator does not have to be, right? Maybe I am wrong, but if the chlorinator is between the well and the reservoir and at times there is hardly anyone on the system, that injected chlorine could be sitting in that reservoir for a period of time before it is pumped into the cabin. 

We really wanted to know which type you recommend and why. 

Thanks for your help, 
Mr. McFarland


Dear Mr. McFarland,

Dry pellet feeders are easy to deal with and afford a great solution. The Sentry Dry Pellet Well Chlorinator is a great chlorinator that is easy to install, requires less maintenance, and is less expensive than a metering pump. You are also correct that you will not have to worry about the pellets freezing; they store well, and will last for many months. In your case, a dry pellet chlorinator may be a better fit for you if you do not want to worry about maintenance during times when no one is using the cabins.

Sentry Dry Pellet Well Chlorinator